Riemvasmaak is so wild and ruggedly beautiful its easy to forget about its politically charged past. It is a community conservancy in the Northern Cape and one of the first land restitution projects of the new democratic government. There are marked hiking trails that lead you through the astounding semi-desert landscape, following the ephemeral Molopo River, you can even hike down to where it empties its sand into the Orange River. Black eagles wheel above you, baboons bark while keeping a weary distance, red rock towers 80-meters towards the bluest sky.